Clotted Cream Information
Clotted cream (sometimes called Devonshire cream or Clouted cream) is a thick cream made by indirectly heating unpasteurised cow's milk using steam or a water bath and then leaving it in shallow pans to cool slowly. During this time, the cream content rises to the surface and forms 'clots' or 'clouts', hence its alternative name 'Clouted cream'.
It is produced by many dairy farms in South West England, and is an essential part of a cream tea. Its largest producer is Rodda's, who produces a peak of 25 tonnes (25,000 kg) of clotted cream each day. Although it has uncertain origins, "Cornish clotted cream" became a protected designation of origin by European Union directive in 1998, as long as the milk is produced in Cornwall and the minimum fat content is 55%. Its popularity and unique flavour have made it the subject of myths in both Devon and Cornwall.
Contents |
Description
Clotted cream has been described as having a "nutty, cooked milk" flavour,[1] and a "rich sweet flavour" with a texture that is grainy sometimes with oily globules on the surface.[2] It is a thick cream, with a very high fat content (a minimum 55% but has an average of 64%) meaning that in United States of America it would be classed as butter.[3] Despite its popularity virtually none is produced by or exported to the USA, due to difficulty with its shelf life.[3]
"Its orient tinge, like spring-time morn, Or baby-buttercups newly-born; Its balmy perfume, delicate pulp, One longs to swallow it all at a gulp, Sure man had ne'er such gifts or theme As your melt-in-mouthy Devonshire cream."
An eulogy on a can of cream sent from a lady in Exeter. (extract) —William Barry Peacock, Manchester, 1853[4]When compared to the fat levels of other creams, for example single cream at 18%,[5] clotted cream is often regarded as unhealthy today. According to the Food Standards Agency, a full 100 grams (3.5 oz) tub provides 586 kilocalories (2,450 kJ) (roughly equivalent to a 200 grams (7.1 oz) cheeseburger).[6]
History
Originally made by farmers to reduce the amount of waste from their milk, clotted cream has become so deep-rooted in the culture that it is now a tourist attraction.[7] While there is no doubt of its strong association with South West England, it is not clear where it first originated. It is similar to Kaymak, a Near Eastern delicacy, and it is possible that it was introduced to Cornwall 2000 years ago, when Phoenician traders looking for tin.[8] Kaymak (or Kajmak) is currently made all over the Middle East, Southeast Europe, Iran, Afghanistan, India and Turkey. It is made from the milk of water buffaloes in the East or cows in the West.
There is evidence that the monks of Tavistock Abbey were creating clotted cream in the early 1300s.[9] After their Abbey had been ransacked by Vikings in 997 AD, the monks rebuilt it with help of Ordulf, Earl of Devon. Local workers were drafted in to help with the repairs, and the monks rewarded them with bread, clotted cream and strawberry preserves.[10]
In the 19th century clotted cream was also commonly known as 'clouted cream',[11] and it was regarded as better nourishment than "raw" cream because that cream was liable to go sour and be difficult to digest, causing illness.[12] An article from 1853 explains that creating clotted cream will produce 25% more cream than regular methods.[13] In Devon, it was so common that in the mid-1800s, it was used in the formative processes of butter, instead of churning cream or milk. This butter had a longer lifespan and was free from any negative flavours added by the churning.[14]
EU Directives
In 1993, an application was made for Cornish clotted cream to have a protected designation of origin (PDO) in the European Union for cream produced by the traditional recipe in Cornwall. This was finally accepted in 1998.[15] Cornish clotted cream must be made from milk produced in Cornwall. It must also have a minimum fat content of 55%.[16] The unique, slightly yellow, Cornish clotted cream colour is due to the high carotene levels in the grass.[16]
Manufacture
Traditionally, clotted cream was created by straining unpasteurized cow's milk, then heating the cream that had risen to the surface in shallow pans using a water bath, before a slow cooling.[2] During this time, the cream content rises to the surface and forms clots. In the United Kingdom, this process is legally equivalent to pasteurization, although there is no requirement for thermographic records.[17] As the temperatures do not reach the same heights as in pasteurization, much care is needed in ensuring high standards of hygiene.
Today, there are two distinct modern methods for making clotted cream. The "Float Cream method" includes scalding a floating layer of double cream in milk (skimmed or whole) in shallow trays. To scald, the trays are heated using steam or very hot water. After the mixture has been heated for up to an hour it is slowly cooled over 12 hours or more, before the cream is separated and packaged.[2] The "Scald Cream method" is similar, but the milk layer is removed and a layer of cream which has been mechanically separated to a minimum fat level is used. This cream is then heated in a similar manner, but at a lower temperature and after a set amount of time it is then chilled and packaged.[2]
Its principal high-volume Cornish manufacturer is Rodda's, a family owned business who are based in Scorrier, Cornwall. A company founded in 1890,[18] they were producing over 1,000,000 pounds (450,000 kg) per year in 1985,[3] and in the run up to Christmas 2009 they were producing up to 25 tonnes (25,000 kg) of clotted cream per day.[18] In the early 1980s, Rodda's signed deals with international airlines to serve small tubs of clotted cream with the in-flight desserts[3] and they consider Wimbledon tennis championships one of their peak selling periods. As a by-product, for every 100 imperial gallons (450 l; 120 US gal) of milk used, 94 imperial gallons (430 l; 113 US gal) of skimmed milk is produced, which is then used in food manufacture.[18]
One Devon manufacturer, Definitely Devon was purchased by Robert Wiseman Dairies in March 2006, closing one of the two Devon based dairy and moving all production to Okehampton.[19] Another, Langage Farm, has started a campaign to get "Devon cream tea" the same protected designation of origin as "Cornish clotted cream".[20] Also, throughout southwest England its manufacture is a cottage industry, with many farms and dairies producing cream for sale in local outlets. As clotted cream is not regularly available outside South West England, there are a number of ways to create an approximation. One example is to mix mascarpone with whipped cream, a little sugar and vanilla extract.[21]
Usage
Cream tea
A modern cream tea. Main article: Cream teaClotted cream is an essential part of a cream tea, a favourite with tourists in Devon and Cornwall. It is served on scones with strawberry or raspberry jam, along with a pot of tea. Traditionally, there are differences in the way it is eaten in each county, in Devon, the cream is traditionally spread first on the scone, with the jam dolloped on top; in Cornwall the jam is spread first with a dollop of cream.[22] Cream tea spread to southern Australia as early immigrants from Devon and Cornwall brought traditional food.[23] In June 2010, Devon put an application for "Devon cream tea" to have protected designation of origin similar to "Cornish clotted cream".[24] One variation on a cream tea is called "Thunder and Lightning" which consists of a round of bread, topped with clotted cream and golden syrup, honey or treacle.[25]
Confectionery
It can be used as an accompaniment to hot or cold desserts. Clotted cream, especially clotted cream from Devon, where it is less yellow due to lower carotene levels in the grass, is regularly used in baking. It is used throughout the South West England in the production of ice cream, for example Kelly's ice cream[26] and fudge made in Devon and Cornwall.
Past usages
Cabbage cream was a delicacy in the mid-17th century, where layers of clotted cream were interspersed with sugar and rosewater, creating a cabbage effect when served.[27] In 1881 it was said to have all the health-giving properties of cod liver oil, with the benefit of a better taste.[28] It was a common accompaniment to junket, a milk based dessert which went out of fashion in the mid-twentieth century.
Notable usages
As with many Cornish and Devon icons, clotted cream has become entrenched in local folklore. For example, one myth tells of Jenny who enticed the giant Blunderbore (sometimes called Moran) by feeding him clotted cream. He eventually fell in love with her and made her his fourth wife.[29] Another myth, from Dartmoor, tells of a princess who wanted to marry an Elven prince, but according to tradition had to bathe in pure cream first. Unfortunately, a witch who wanted the prince for her daughter kept souring the cream. Eventually, the prince offered the princess clotted cream, which the witch was unable to sour.[30] It was mentioned in The Shepheardes Calendar, a poem by Edmund Spenser in 1579.
During the reception following the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer in 1981, one course was strawberries and Cornish clotted cream.[3] Clotted cream at the time was mainly eaten in the South West England and was uncommon in London, so was brought to Buckingham Palace directly by Rodda's. In 2010 the shareholders attending Marks and Spencer's annual general meeting were treated to a free tub of clotted cream, possibly to deflect away from an unpopular executive pay package — which was approved.[31]
See also
| Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Clotted cream |
External links
References
- ^ Figioni, Paula (2010). How Baking Works: Exploring the Fundamentals of Baking Science. John Wiley and Sons. p. 363. ISBN 0470392673. http://books.google.com/books?id=XqKF7PqV02cC&dq=clotted+cream+flavour&source=gbs_navlinks_s.
- ^ a b c d Early, Ralph (1998). The technology of dairy products. Springer. pp. 45-49. ISBN 075140344X. http://books.google.com/books?id=BuR28Y-S4SMC&dq=clotted+cream&source=gbs_navlinks_s.
- ^ a b c d e "'Clotted cream' caviar of dairy". Ottawa Citizen. 23 January 1985. http://news.google.com/newspapers?id=ub4yAAAAIBAJ&sjid=W-8FAAAAIBAJ&pg=1298,1063710&dq=clotted+cream+legend&hl=en. Retrieved 3 December 2010.
- ^ Hawker, Rev. J. M. (1881), "Clouted Cream", Report and Transactions of the Devonshire Association 13: 320
- ^ Barnett, Anne (1998). Understanding Ingredients. Heinemann. p. 26. ISBN 0435428276.
- ^ Food Standards Agency: Manual of Nutrition. HMSO London. 2008.
- ^ Terry Marsden; Jonathan Murdoch (2006). Between the local and the global: confronting complexity in the contemporary agri-food sector. Emerald Group Publishing. pp. 306-309. ISBN 076231317X. http://books.google.com/books?id=6285iMejcogC&dq=clotted+cream&source=gbs_navlinks_s. Retrieved 2 December 2010.
- ^ Alan Davidson; Tom Jaine (2006). The Oxford companion to food. Oxford University Press. pp. 225. ISBN 0192806815. http://books.google.com/books?id=JTr-ouCbL2AC&pg=PA225&dq=clotted+cream&hl=en&ei=svb0TPCbFoyXhQehj6mDBg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CFEQ6AEwBzgK#v=onepage&q=clotted%20cream&f=false.
- ^ Lane, John (1998). In Praise of Devon: A Guide to Its People, Places and Character. Dundurn Press Ltd.. ISBN 1870098757.
- ^ "Did cream teas originate in Tavistock in 997AD". BBC News. 17th January 2004. http://www.bbc.co.uk/devon/news_features/2004/tavistock_cream_tea.shtml. Retrieved 3 December 2010.
- ^ A tour through Cornwall, in the autumn of 1808. Wilkie and Robinson. 1809. pp. 360-361. http://books.google.com/books?id=geYvAAAAYAAJ&dq=clouted+cream&source=gbs_navlinks_s.
- ^ Sinclair, Sir John (1807). The code of health and longevity: or, A concise view, of the principles calculated for the preservation of health, and the attainment of long life. Printed for A. Constable & co. pp. 272-273. http://books.google.com/books?id=fj9KAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA272&dq=clouted+cream&hl=en&ei=g9T4TJnTLI2EhQfR4rGeCQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCQQ6AEwADhQ#v=onepage&q=clouted%20cream&f=false.
- ^ "Rural economy: The dairy". New York Times. 21 January 1853. http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?res=F50810FF385E167493C3AB178AD85F478584F9. Retrieved 3 December 2010.
- ^ The transactions of the Provincial medical and surgical association. Provincial Medical and Surgical Association, Worcester,. 1839. pp. 203-204.
- ^ European Union directive: Directive 1998/98/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 September 1998 supplementing the Annex to Regulation (EC) No 2400/96 on the entry of certain names in the Register of protected designation of origin and protected geographical indications
- ^ a b "EU Protected Food Names Scheme — UK registered names — National application No: 03514: Cornish clotted cream". Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs. http://www.defra.gov.uk/foodfarm/food/industry/regional/foodname/products/registered/cornclcream.htm. Retrieved 2 December 2010.
- ^ A. H. Varnam; Jane P. Sutherland (2001). Milk and milk products: technology, chemistry and microbiology. Springer. pp. 204-205. ISBN 0834219557. http://books.google.com/books?id=WorGTC1YjsIC&dq=clotted+cream+crust&source=gbs_navlinks_s.
- ^ a b c "Interview with Nicholas Rodda". http://www.businesscornwall.co.uk/features/face-to-face-nicholas-rodda-123. Retrieved 2 December 2010.
- ^ "Forty-five jobs go in dairy close". BBC News. 23 October 2006. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/devon/6078182.stm. Retrieved 2 December 2010.
- ^ "Cream teas battle rages between Devon and Cornwall". The Telegraph. 20 May 2010. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/7746090/Cream-teas-battle-rages-between-Devon-and-Cornwall.html. Retrieved 3 December 2010.
- ^ "Devonshire (Clotted) or Devon Cream Recipe". Joy of Baking. http://www.joyofbaking.com/DevonshireCream.html. Retrieved 3 December 2010.
- ^ "How do you do take your cream tea?". BBC News. 9 June 2010. http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/cornwall/hi/people_and_places/newsid_8694000/8694384.stm. Retrieved 2 December 2010.
- ^ Wilfrid Prest, Kerrie Round, Carol S. Fort (2001). Wakefield Companion to South Australian History. Wakefield Press. pp. 210. ISBN 1862545588. http://books.google.com/books?id=EDgPo8KWKh4C.
- ^ "Devon cream tea campaign put to government". BBC News. 8 June 2010. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/10262655. Retrieved 2 December 2010.
- ^ Sandra Salmans (1982-09-05). "BRITAIN'S BEST AT TEATIME". New York Times. http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?sec=travel&res=9907E7D91438F936A3575AC0A964948260. Retrieved 2007-01-28.
- ^ "Kelly's of Cornwall products". http://www.kellysofcornwall.co.uk/products.
- ^ A gift to young housewives. Indiana University Press. 1998. pp. 368-369. ISBN 0253212103.
- ^ Hawker, Rev. J. M. (1881), "Clouted Cream", Report and Transactions of the Devonshire Association 13: 322
- ^ Viccars, Sue (2011). Frommer's Devon and Cornwall With Your Family. Frommer. p. 238. ISBN 0470749474.
- ^ Sandles, Tim. "Dartmoor Clotted Cream". Legendary Dartmoor. http://www.legendarydartmoor.co.uk/clott_cream.htm. Retrieved 2010-12-03.
- ^ "Marks and Spencer shareholders support boss's pay plan". BBC news. 14 July 2010. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-10638950. Retrieved 3 December 2010.
Categories: Dairy products | Spreads | Cornish cuisine | Devon culture
|